Thinning hair? Don't panic — here's how to treat it
NBC News
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Source: NBC News
Nothing causes dread like glancing at the drain to see how much hair you’ve lost while showering. Though it’s normal for hair thickness and quantity to change over time (a person might shed anywhere from 50 to 100 strands per day), sudden hair loss can signal an underlying medical condition. Regardless of the reason behind it, pattern hair loss is not pleasant for anyone and can cause significant psychological distress to those experiencing it.
Though experts say pattern hair loss can be attributed to genetics, some products can stimulate growth and work to prevent hair loss in the future. But before you buy some “magic” elixir in a moment of panic, it’s crucial to identify what is causing your hair loss in the first place.
We talked to dermatologists and trichologists about what causes thinning hair and hair loss, as well as the best ingredients to combat thinning hair. We also compiled expert-recommended hair thickening shampoos, treatments and more, plus highly rated products with dermatologist-approved hair thickening formulas.
The best treatment for thinning hair depends on the cause of that hair loss, according to experts. “Topical serums and targeted shampoos may not be enough to thicken hair and curb hair loss completely,” says board-certified NYC cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Michele Green. “Often, patients will need a combination of topical products, oral medications (Minoxidil, Finasteride, Dutasteride or Spironolactone), and in-office treatments (PRP injections, HydraFacial Keravive) to treat their thinning hair effectively.” (More on these treatments below.)
If you’re goal is to make your hair look thicker and want products that pair well with medications and in-office treatments, experts recommend keeping the following in mind:
* Ingredients that promote hair growth: Minoxidil is proven to be the most effective treatment for promoting hair growth in men and women (more below). It is also the active ingredient in OTC products from brands like Rogaine.
* Ingredients that keep hair healthy: Beyond using minoxidil-based OTC treatments or professional treatments at the dermatologist’s office, the best one can do is use gentle, hydrating shampoos with ingredients like argan oil and glycerin.
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Listed below are dermatologist- and trichologist-approved options to help promote hair growth and keep your strands healthy.
Nioxin’s System Kits rely on peppermint oil, niacinamide and biotin to thicken hair and is a favorite among Green’s patients. The kits, which include a therapeutic shampoo, conditioner and scalp treatment, are formulated based on your hair’s unique needs: the System 1 kits target light thinning in natural hair, color-treated hair and bleached hair. The System 2 kits target the same hair types, but for progressed thinning. Nioxin sells its shampoos, conditioners, leave-in products and other styling tools separately, too.
This shampoo, an NBC Select Wellness Awards winner for fine hair, can boost hair volume, improve strength, exfoliate the scalp and hydrate hair, according to the brand. It’s also oil- and paraben-free, which means it’s safe to use on color-treated hair, according to Revitalash. To apply, the brand recommends gently massaging it into the scalp and letting it sit for up to two minutes before rinsing.
“Rogaine is probably one of the few things that’s been actually FDA-approved and worked out to help grow hair,” says Green. The active ingredient in Rogaine products, including this foam, is minoxidil, which stimulates hair growth. Both the men and women’s foams contain 5% of minoxidil, but Rogaine recommends men apply a half capful twice a day directly to the scalp in the hair loss area. For women, the brand recommends applying half a capful just once a day. You can expect to see results in 120 days, but keep in mind that continued use is necessary to maintain results, according to the brand.
Apply this three-step system, which includes a shampoo, conditioner and hair thickening treatment, daily to help reduce hair loss and thinning. It’s best for non-color-treated hair and has botanical ingredients like rosemary extract to stimulate hair growth, according to the brand. BosleyMD has many options for thinning hair treatments, so you should be able to find the right one for your unique situation.
NBC Select editorial director Lauren Swanson, who describes herself as having a lot of fine hair, has been a big fan of Vegamour since her beauty editor days. “I have these thinner spots on my scalp from when I danced ballet and needed to wear tight buns for hours,” she says. “When I started to use the Vegamour serum many years ago and take the gummies, I noticed more hair density.” King is also a fan of this serum because it has red clover, which may help to block DHT (or dihydrotestosterone, the hormone responsible for hair loss), and turmeric extract, which may help to inhibit DHT production. “It has a nice texture and doesn’t make the hair greasy,” says King.
This serum has niacinamide, vitamin E, zinc and peptides to help support a healthy scalp and soothe irritation and itchiness, says King. It not only makes your hair look thicker and fuller, but it also makes strands stronger, according to the brand. It’s also very light and water-like, so it won’t make your hair or scalp look or feel greasy after you apply it.
Similar to Rogaine’s foam product, this topical minoxidil solution is sold separately in men and women’s versions. The women’s product, however, is less concentrated and contains just 2% minoxidil. You can expect to see results after 120 days of daily use, according to the brand.
This Verb serum comes recommended by King, who likes that it has niacinamide, ginseng root extract, a bio-peptide, a density complex and a 20-week clinical study that showed visibly denser hair. The serum helps reduce shedding and makes hair visibly thicker, according to the brand. Plus, it has a lovely bergamot and sage scent.
While this Avalon Organics shampoo isn’t formulated to spur hair growth, it is a notable favorite among Green’s patients that have an irritated scalp. In our guide to the best shampoos for scalp acne, multiple experts recommend tea tree oil-based products to soothe irritation. Tea tree oil also has antibacterial properties.
Nutrafol, a natural, drug-free shampoo line that makes oral supplements and various hair care products, comes recommended by both King and Green. While it’s best to consult your doctor before taking any supplement, you could start by trying the Root Purifier Shampoo. When Swanson tried the shampoo, she says it hydrated her scalp without being overly greasy or weighing her hair down. The sulfate-free shampoo is formulated with gentle cleansers like cocamidopropyl betaine that cleanse while optimizing your scalp’s pH levels for improved hair health, according to the brand.
You can apply this volumizing foam on dry or wet hair to prevent breakage and brittleness, according to Revitalash. NBC Select updates editor Mili Godio uses this foam on her fine hair to give it more volume and prevent it from falling flat. “I apply it on my hair wash days and it makes such a huge difference. I notice my hair looks so much thicker, especially when I let my hair air dry,” she says. Revitalash recommends parting your hair into sections and thoroughly massaging the product into your scalp and on roots.
Many of Green’s patients love this argan oil shampoo. Argan oil (also an ingredient in an NBC Select-favorite clarifying shampoo) can help hydrate dry hair and retain moisture. It’s also formulated with the cleanser cocamidopropyl betaine, which is a gentler alternative to harsh detergents and sulfates, according to Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology.
Before treating thinning hair, it’s best to determine the root cause of that hair loss first. “There is no magic button,” says Green, but there are a few things that can help regrow hair, or at least protect the hair you still have.
* Minoxidil: Minoxidil is the most proven treatment for both men and women, says King. “Low-dose Minoxidil is a safe and effective hair loss treatment that strengthens hair follicles and is commonly prescribed off-label by dermatologists to promote hair retention and growth,” says Green. Found in shampoos and popular products like Rogaine, it essentially widens the blood cells, allowing more oxygen, blood and nutrients to reach the follicles. While topical Minoxidil is excellent for hair thickening and growth, some people find oral Minoxidil to work better for them, says Green. If you have pets, keep in mind minoxidil is toxic to cats and dogs, even in small amounts.
* Argan oil and/or tea tree oil: “Argan oil is rich in fatty acids and will protect your hair,” says Green. Plus, it can help your hair retain moisture. Green says many of her patients also like shampoos that have tea tree oil, which has antimicrobial and antifungal properties that can soothe an irritated scalp.
* Glycerin-based styling products: Glycerin-based products are also good for keeping the hair hydrated, says King. “A hair care regimen that allows the protective layer or cuticle to remain intact as long as possible will decrease breakage,” she says.
Products like shampoos and serums can be used in conjunction with oral medication and various dermatology treatments, like platelet-rich plasma injections (PRP) or prescription-only laser caps. Most importantly, topical treatments need to remain on your head to work. If you’re washing it in and washing it out, as you would with shampoo, how much benefit you get “is arguable,” says Green. The most important ingredient of all is hard data. “There are many products out there that promise results that aren’t backed by hard science,” says King.
As for what else to avoid, look for shampoos free of harsh detergents, like Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), according to Rose. Some alcohols may dehydrate the hair too: “The ones to avoid usually have ‘prop’ in their name, like isopropyl or propanol,” she says.
“The most common cause of hair loss is androgenetic alopecia, which is called male pattern or female pattern baldness,” says Green. With this form of hair loss, hair follicles shrink and eventually stop growing. In women, it presents as a gradually widening part. In men, pattern baldness usually brings a receding hairline or bald spot.
But there are other things that can cause hair loss too, like underlying medical issues or stress, says Green. She recommends paying attention to the nature of your hair loss: is it suddenly all over, or is it gradually thinning in the front? Take note of those symptoms and consult a doctor, who will likely request blood work to check if you’re anemic, vitamin D deficient or if you have a thyroid disorder or autoimmune disease, according to Green. A lot of Green’s patients are shocked to learn their hair loss is a symptom of something like lupus, or even a tumor in one bizarre case.
Or, a patient might have telogen effluvium, a form of hair loss caused by stress to the body or mind. A loss of a loved one or job, a high fever, pregnancy or having surgery could all cause sudden hair loss.
“Hairs are usually found at all different stages of the hair cycle,” says King. But during intense stress, the hair can become synchronized, leading many to fall out at the same time. “The good news is that this kind of hair loss is reversible,” says King. “It does grow back.” During the early stages of the pandemic, for example, many of Green’s patients’ hair loss worsened, not necessarily from infection, but the stress of isolation. (You can learn more on the causes behind hair loss at this fact sheet from the American Academy of Dermatology).
Genetics play a huge role in hair loss, but tackling the problem sooner rather than later can help: “You’ll want to stop it before it gets bad because once you lose your hair, and those hair follicles are dead, they’re not growing back,” says Green.
But you need not despair; there are multiple ways to stall the seemingly inevitable and some simple hair care tips and tricks to prevent hair loss in the first place:
* A healthy lifestyle: Practice habits that reduce stress and benefit your physical health, like meditation, yoga, journaling anda whole foods diet, our experts say. Avoid alcohol and cigarettes as much as possible, too: “They definitely weaken hair and they are just bad for you in general. No crash dieting either,” says King.
* Protect your remaining hair: Wearing a really tight bun day after day pulls on your hair and can cause permanent damage, says Green. So can frequent use of heated hair styling tools. “A hair-care regimen that allows the protective layer, or cuticle, to remain intact for as long as possible will decrease breakage and drying out of the hair strands,” says King.
* Use gentle fabrics: Hair is very fragile when it’s wet. Experts recommend using a microfiber towel after showering and sleeping on a satin pillowcase or in a satin bonnet.
If you notice your hair thinning, don’t hesitate to see a specialist and advocate for yourself during your appointment. “One of the most frustrating things is how many women get dismissed,” says Green. Don’t be afraid to speak up — a good doctor will make time to chat and assess your unique situation.
At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure that all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and with no undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
* Dr. Hadley King is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology.
* Dr. Michele Green is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City who specializes in cosmetic dermatology.
Mili Godio is an updates editor at NBC Select who focuses on skin care, hair care and wellness. Christina Colizza is a former editor at NBC Select and has been a product reviewer since 2018.
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